Images(3)

Chinese Cloisonné Butterfly Brooch

Date19th Century

Object NameBrooch

Mediumsilver, gold and enamel

ClassificationsJewellery

Dimensions2 x 7 x 4.7cm

LocationView by Appointment - Aberdeen Treasure Hub

Object numberABDMS089853

Keywords

About MeDuring the Qing dynasty in China high ranking ladies favoured a large elaborate headdress shaped like a pair of bat wings. This was covered with rich fabric and various ornaments, often combined with pairs of long hair pins which had trembling dangling ends.

A favourite treatment for the headings of such hair pins as well as ornaments which were sewn or pinned to the headdresses was Kingfisher feathers. These ornaments were usually made of gilded brass, the most commonly used patterns being flower sprays and various animals such as butterflies, bats and sea birds, together with the phoenix, symbol of status and wealth; The ornaments were made with small cells, similar to those found in Western enamel jewellery. However instead of enamel the spaces were filled with tiny cut out pieces of the beautiful iridescent blue kingfisher feathers.

The feathers were painstakingly cut to exact size to fit separate metal sections, and carefully attached with thin adhesive so they retained brilliant colour and iridescence. This jewel like mosaic was often combined with semi precious materials such as pearls, jade, coral and turquoise. In the lesser pieces glass jewels and faux pearl beads were used.